Monday 29 April 2013

The view from the train. Maybe what we could see and maybe what we felt about what we saw

The views from all the trains since we left England have been of completely flat land with no fences, hedges or walls to mark land ownership. Absolutely nothing except small paths here and there.  Also there has been little wild life and we have seen few people.

We have seen scatterings of houses, many of them little bigger than huts and sadly many of them of a poor construction.

There has been managed forest of fir and silver birch but of character there has been little.  It was clearly the same in Grandpas day and it is rather depressing and sad.

Yesterday I reflected on the opportunities for communication which have most certainly moved on since Grandpas day

He wrote of sending post card which of course we do. Mainly to my grandchildren. I have always made a habit of sending them post cards. Sometimes one a day. I try to remember to date them too.

My mum had a huge pile of post cards she had been sent over the years but sadly the date is not decipherable on most of them. I hope the cards that Charlie's three "The E numbers" as they are addressed by us on PCs and Molly and Tom will enjoy the cards as much as we enjoy sending them.

We were texting Bridget, Ted, Marie, Ruth and Brian and Aly and Tony who had come to see us off before we got to London

We had an email from the chap from the South West News Services saying the Daily Mail online had taken up the story and he gave us the link!  From that online story there have been many comments from people all over the world who have taken an interest or made comments on our trip. And of course there is the blog! So although some things have not changed, many more things have.

Today we woke soon after 6 which was in fact soon after 3am UK time as Moscow is 3 hours ahead of home time.  But we had changed our watches the evening before and gone to bed quite early after the exertions of the verbal encounter Tone had with the train attendant and the excitement of the bogies and the fact that we were hungry!

There was a frost and mist hung over the land. It was quite spooky. Much of the land by the track is flooded, whether permanently or not is not clear.  The floodwater was frozen but it still did not look picturesque. It is still flat, there are still no hills or hedges and the little houses still look very sad.

We both slept well and were pleasantly surprised.  Tea and biscuits for breakfast as Tone did not even think of running the gauntlet of his fierce Russian friend again

As we travelled on towards Moscow there was snow at the side of the track where the sun had not reached. We did see a Russian lady with a green flag at a level crossing as Grandpa had described and we saw some wonderful old and not so old trains. The houses began to be less small and we saw our first gold onion domed church.

We were at the end of the part of our trip that was organised by Great Rail Journeys and at the beginning of the part organised by Audleys so from the station in Moscow much of the time we will have a guide and a driver which we hope will work out well.  We will see.

Our first impression of Moscow is that it is enormous and that Red Square is such a tiny part of it. We have only surmised this from a map so far but will report more tomorrow

  

Into the unknown and Tone has an exchange with a Russian lady!


Yesterday we set off from Warsaw to travel overnight to Moscow via Belarus.

We had visas in our passports and knew the trip would take from 3.45 on Sunday
to nearly noon on Monday but we did not really know what to expect of the overnight train.
We repacked our bags so that all we needed was in our back packs and planned a snack lunch and
dinner on the train as we had been assured there would be a restaurant car attached once we
reached Belarus.

In the café at the station in Warsaw was a large Photograph of a lady on a horse racing against a steam engine called "Princess Louise" which was a 4-6-2 Princess Class locomotive built in Crewe in Cheshire the town where Tony was born! Why is it there? Tone

The train came in on time and our carriage was right at the back. There were other Brits on the train.
Six chaps from Yorkshire travelling from Batley to Beijing. Actually it was another place in Yorkshire beginning with B but I don't remember the name. They were in sleeping compartments on either side of ours so we got chatting straight away.

They had gin and tonic and smelly cheese and bread that they had brought with them that morning from Batley. A jolly lot apart from their glorious leader who was not interested in what we were doing as  he only wanted to tell us where he had been. It was odd really given the response we have been having.

He and his friends were well travelled and we all go on well.

I was slightly alarmed when I saw what was to be our little home for the next 24 hours. It was rather as Grandpa had described his carriage but less luxurious. Bunk beds each with a bedding pack and two pillows and the option to have a third bunk which would have meant sleepers would have been like sardines and probably unable to turn over in bed.
We all agreed that it was lucky we were travelling first class!

The loos left a lot to be desired. How can a loo which has a water supply to flush it and drains straight
down a 9" hole onto the track smell?  What is to smell. Naïve I know. Someone is missing the loo!!
And to add to the inconvenience the loos are locked at least 20 minutes before and after a station. That  is fair enough as if I lived near a station I would not want loos emptying out of train near me but we would have liked some warning!

So on we go. The train left on time and we were offered a cup of tea. We are used to drinking black tea now and it was delicious. It was served in glasses in a fancy silver coloured holder with a very ornate spoon for stirring. A pic will be in the gallery.

Then we were given immigration forms to fill in. Like the ones you fill in when you go to the USA. They always make me nervous in case I fill in the wrong space. There was an English translation which said no mistakes and no blots! Enough to make you get it wrong and make blots too.

We were warned that the loos would be shut for 3 hours as we crossed the Polish/Belarus Border and had our bogies changed.

Grandpa writes of the border crossing and says that the train track is fenced off so you cannot leave the train and if you did you could not leave the station. It is the same today!

Guards in many different uniforms with those big peaked caps came onto the train. They all have guns and are not in the habit of speaking to you let alone smiling. All rather intimidating. Tone and I were playing cards by now  to pass the time and looking forward to supper as we were really hungry.

We still had to change the bogies. The tracks which Russian trains run on are 6.5 inches wider than the tracks than the standard ones so when trains get to the Russian border they are shunted into a shed, lifted off their little bogies which are widened to make bigger bogies and the train is lowered back onto the track. All this is seeming rather unladylike and I am so sorry. But that is what happened.
We got on our way again and our lovely attendant who I will call Boris told us that there was a restaurant car further up the train.  Tone went off to reconnoitre. He was gone quite a long time and I was beginning to worry when he reappeared. He was huffing and puffing and I wondered what was wrong.

To make his way down the train he had had to pass through several other sleeper carriages. If someone passes through the carriage everyone else has to step into their compartments to let the person through. There was singing and lots of noisy people as he passed through until he came to a carriage door which he could not open. He pulled and pulled but could not get it open. On the other side was a fierce lady who was waving her arms at him and shouting, in Russian, naturally.  He pulled the door and she held onto it to stop him opening it. She shouted at him and he shouted at her and she won!

She would not let him through here carriage to get to the dining car and that was the
end of it. And the end of our plans to eat supper last night. I am sure Boris would not have been so rude.

We had some biscuits and had another cup of Boris's lovely tea and played more cards till we went to bed.

We had heard a conversation going on between the 6 chaps from Batley about who would make up their beds. They were mainly retired army from Sandhurst and the like so I expect they were hoping for a batman to appear. However in the absence of said batman they did it themselves and the conversations were very funny.
    

Saturday 27 April 2013

Ripped off by taxi driver

It is just as well we did not take our first experience of Warsaw as the defining one.  We got to the station pretty much on time and got into a taxi. The driver was a bit miserable but we decided that it was because the trip was not very far.

He growled a few times during the trip and when we got to the hotel the meter read 28 Zlotys. This is about £7. A bit more than we would have expected but  as the trip had been slow I assumed that had upped the price a bit.

Being the first Polish money we were spending I only had a 50 Zloty note which he was about to make off with without giving me any change.  He saw my surprise and pretended he had not noticed the note was a 50 and gave me a 10 note back.  Cheeky devil. Tone tried to stop him to get the other 10 but he drove off on a cloud of exhaust!

This morning we asked in the hotel and the concierge said the maximum should be 20 and said the man was illegal. Not sure how we are supposed to know that when he appeared to be driving a normal taxi.

Well since then things have looked up.  Lovely hotel, as Tone puts it perfect Polish plumbing and a beautiful city with lovely people (apart from the taxi driver)

We went on yet another bus trip today and spent a lot of time in the old city. Grandpa would have recognised it even though it has been razed to the ground by the German army as a reprisal for trying to rise against their occupation in 1944 as the soviet army stood and watched 150,000 died, but the Poles have rebuilt an exact copy. We saw series of pictures showing before the war, immediately after the war and now and the before and the now are hardly different. What incredible commitment to rebuild everything so carefully.

We particularly enjoyed the completely rebuilt Royal Castle which had more gold decoration than we have seen since a church in Monaco! Tony.

Coffee and then much later a snack in a lovely little café where once again we were asked how far we were going! Julia thank you for making us lovely sandwiches even though it was after lunch by the time we returned and good luck for the season. Lovely coffee too!

What a lovely place

Berlin to Warsaw

Left Berlin yesterday morning at about 10 o'clock. This train had old fashioned compartments and we were in solitary splendour for most of the way.

Grandpa wrote in his diary for this part of the journey "No hedges or fences between the fields, just little paths. No hills since we left England. Not played a single game of cards yet. The level crossings are all guarded by ladies with green flags".



Well I can tell you that although the level crossings are no longer guarded by ladies with green flags, nothing else has changed and we too have still not played cards. Too busy looking at everything we see to play cards. Maybe that will change after Moscow!

I have been reading Grandpas diary as we travel and am so glad we are doing this trip. I can still hardly believe we are really going to China.

I still think some of the level crossings have resident crossing keepers as we used to have in England as there are certainly some which do not seem to be automatic and there are little houses beside them where we have seen someone standing by the gate as we go over the crossing.

We were joined about an hour before Warsaw by Ty Janner, an American who works in the UK and Poland. He made the mistake of asking "how far are you folks going" Ty I hope you got our email and are now able to follow the blog. And let's hope you found the new tram connection to the airport!

We were well looked after on the train by a lady who offered us regular drinks and snacks and bought us our lunch from the restaurant car to eat in the compartment!

I had a walk down the train through the dining car and the second class carriages which were absolutely jammed full of rather jolly groups of very loud people, some asleep, bags everywhere, lots of drinking and eating, some stilted conversations with me in passing but my Polish is non-existent so very difficult. Tony.

  

Great trip.

Thursday 25 April 2013

b******ing in Berlin

Yesterday I wrote in my diary just after leaving Cologne "we are now seeing some small hills and pretty little villages, which is nice after the flat scenery we saw from Brussels to Cologne". However I spoke too soon.

Within a few miles the hills had gone and so had the pretty little villages. The landscape is flat, flat, flat all the way to Berlin so we travelled at up to 250 kph!

The trains are amazing and on time to the minute so far. Weird really as a minute or two either way would seem more normal.

We booked into our hotel here in Berlin and were told we had been upgraded to a superior room. The only trouble is that it is on the 27th floor. Could be worse I am sure and in Shanghai and Beijing we may be much higher but being up graded is one thing but being put on ten floors higher is another, if you are Tone.

If you know Tone you will know he not fond of heights so this news was not as welcome as the receptionist thought it might be! Anyway he is being very brave.

Today, Thursday 25th April we have been out to explore Berlin. I don't think I had appreciated what a big city it is. We decided on a combined bus and boat trip and it was great. And as with the trains highly efficient and well organised.

We saw the Brandenburg Gate, The Wall and Checkpoint Charlie as well as many other famous sights

We got a thorough b******ing from a German tourist because at the first stop we did not realise there was a rear door to the bus. I adopted my best Granny Pardoe voice and said "there is no need to be rude" he said "why not?" to which I replied. "Because you would be so much happier if you were nice"  He went off in a huff

Wednesday 24 April 2013

Allo Allo

Went to what turned out to be a beer hall last night.
Tone a bit fragile after drinking one beer at lunchtime. Ted was right about the beer at Barry being the last good stuff for a while. Or at least the last stuff that is to Tones taste!
The place held at least 1000, yes 1000 people and was buzzing. After a bit of a search we found a couple of seats and within 20 seconds of sitting down a waiter came along. "Two beers?" he said
Being worried that we might be taking someone else's order I said we had not ordered them. His reply in a real Allo Allo style was "This is a beer hall, I serve beer" and he plonked two beers on the table!
So beer it was! Actually I quite like it but Tone is more of a connoisseur The minute we finished the first glass another was put before us. He would have served another but we managed to stop him as enough is enough and Tone is suffering a little for it this morning.
The beer is served in small glasses which are served from a slotted tray holding 10 to 20 glasses each. We watched the barman fill about 60 to 70 glasses a minute and by my reckoning he filled well over 1000 just whilst we were there. Amazing! Nice supper too!

Just for the record I am not suffering from hangovers it is an infection which Lizzy says is made worse by the beer, I have the screaming trots!

Tuesday 23 April 2013

Being tourists

Had a great Turkish meal last night served by a young waiter who had done a Masters Degree in Business Management at Bournemouth. When in Germany eat Turkish!
This morning went out and took an open topped bus ride,  On the bus there was quite a large group of boys with two teachers. Our hearts sank when we saw them but they were fine. One of the teachers was more of a pain as she kept going up and down the stairs.
We saw Cologne from all sides!  Then a visit to the cathedral (spectacular) If you have been here you will know.  And then lunch. . The guides say you should have a "Halve Hahn" when you are here, which is rye bread with middle aged Gouda cheese and a glass of kolsch beer, so we did. Delicious.
The German atmosphere was slightly interrupted by a man playing steel drums in the Cathedral Plaza but we love steel drums so all was well
Then even more tourist behaviour. We went on a boat trip on the Rhine. The boys who had been on the bus were on the boat too.
A bit blowy but very interesting. We did not learn anything much more than we had heard from the bus but, preferring the water to the land, we watched the skipper manage the very long boat when we turned into the strong tide and then back again. We thought he got quite close to the piles of a big bridge but all was well.
Altogether a good day. So far

Are you going far?


Several times a day already we have been asked by fellow travellers "are you going far" The first time in the hotel in London which of course elicited the response "to Shanghai!" with the description of the trip which so many of you have  heard us tell over the last 11 months
To the man on the train from Brussels to Cologne yesterday I said "you may wish you had not asked that question" He like everyone else was interested but was also worried about his own trip to Heidelberg as he had not been on holiday for many years. Great chats with fellow travellers. Everyone has a tale to tell.
I did ask him who he was meeting and his reply was that it was a 22 year old who looked like Audrey Hepburn, he declined my offer to stand in for him for a couple of days!

Free coffee I dont think so!

We decided to travel first class on the trains across Europe, not the least because it is not much more expensive than ordinary. To which Tone says "who are you calling ordinary?"
Yesterday on the train from Brussels to Cologne an attendant came along offering teas or coffees which many people took and started to drink.
When she got to the end of the carriage she came back with her wallet open asking us all for 2.90 euros! Not quite what we  had expected, so a little muttering from our fellow travellers. All expected things to be as they are in first class at home with free hot drinks. Hey Ho,  a lesson learned. Just as well we weren't on the train at lunch time!
The trip was pretty uneventful apart from this. Arrived in Cologne where we are staying for two nights.
As we walked out of the station and start to walk off towards the hotel where we were saying we both agreed that the highlight of our visit to Cologne must be the cathedral.
Not being sure where we were in relation to the cathedral we looked around us and there it was. Right by the train station and of course dwarfing all around. Fabulous scene to arrive to. 

Sunday 21 April 2013

Shall we run the marathon before we go.

When we were in the taxi taking us from Paddington to the hotel at St Pancras the taxi driver reminded s that we were lucky to get a room as it was the Marathon the next day and most hotels were full for weeks.
We checked into the Pullman hotel and went to collect our tickets for the Eurostar from St Pancras.

Then in a taxi to the Clarence for supper.

Grandpa stayed at the Clarence and had dinner there on his night in London. It is no longer an hotel but a VERY lively pub in Whitehall. We had booked a table fortunately and we had supper which was great. Then a bus back to the hotel. Tracker Barron found which bus and it took us straight back. A glass of red wine which we took to our rooms. Grandpa says in his diary that he had met up with his friends and that they yarned till 2.30 but he was younger and had not had the lunch with wine etc that we had had so our 11.00 bedtime may seem tame but not to us.

21st April. Up at 6 and breakfast at 7. The dining room was FULL of Frenchmen in tight lycra (it quite put me off my breakfast if I am allowed to say that!) eating piles of bread and bananas and presumably about to run the marathon.  We decided against joining them as we might miss our train.

The train was fantastic. Lots of hot coffee and we were the only ones in our carriage so really quiet. I started to write my diary. I have copied Grandpas diary into my journal on the left hand page and am writing my own on the other side. 

We must make sure we are not telling you all so much that we miss something!

Brussels Sunday Market is huge. Right by the Station so that the taxi driver had steam coming out of his ears as we sat in the traffic.

Hotel close to the centre.

Walked to the Grande Place and had Moule Frit and a beer in a little café off the Place. Went to the museum walked and walked and are now back in the hotel. It does feel odd to be on our way to China but as the trip progresses we will get used to it.

So far it is everything we had hoped. Tomorrow Cologne!


Greetings from Brussels

It is very strange to have set off from Barry yesterday to go to Shanghai and to be mooching round Brussels today!

We had the most amazing send off yesterday starting with Charlie, Miche, Ellie, Emily and Ed taking us to Southampton where we all had bacon rolls for breakfast and Ed could hardly contain himself as the trains came and went. He nearly exploded when three trains came in at once and Tone had to run to keep up with him.

On the train to Bristol Parkway where my best friends Bridget and Ted met us to drive us down to Barry. Bridget and I go back a long way and totally true to form she said she wanted to come and wave us off and would provide a picnic for lunch.  When we walked to their car we saw that they had laid out a little table with lovely mugs and home made biscuits and they had a little gas ring and made really delicious coffee which was so much better that Costa on the motorway (sorry Costa but its true)

We drove down to Barry uneventfully and parked in the station car park. Bridget started to twitter about whether we should walk up to Romilly Road (where grandpa lived at the time he left for Shanghai.  She made a couple of phone calls out of our hearing and I began to wonder what was up.

What was up was that my sister Marie turned up shortly afterwards having left my brother in law walking the Pembroke Way to come and see us off too.

This just gets better and the sun was shining too.

We visited Dave who lives at 28 Romilly Road now and he showed us round the house. It is truly lovely and still has the floor tiles in the hall and the wall tiles in the porch that would have been the ones grandpa saw as he left.  Dave described how the house had been and it was great to meet him. Thank you Dave for being so patient with us.

At about this time John Rowley from the South West News Services arrived. He wanted some pics for First Great Western trains to publicise the fact that they gave us free first class tickets to travel up to London.

We recreated the picture of Grandpa and his dad and friends going to the station and it is in the gallery or will be once I upload it.

I then realised a long held ambition which many will know about.  I walked onto Barry Station and asked for two singles to Shanghai!

Tracy the ticket lady had been warned and as cool as a cucumber agreed and printed me off two tickets.  To Cardiff!  I hope it will make a good pic as John made us do it a few times.  Thanks Tracy

Once John had finished with us for the time being we returned to Bridget and Teds car where they had laid out a picnic to beat all picnics.

Tables and lace tablecloths, oysters and champagne, delicious chicken liver pate and wonderful white wine, smoked salmon sandwiches, scrummy cheeses and red wine. Really good beer for Tone as Ted thought it might be the last decent beer until we get home.

As we started the picnic our friends Ruth and Brian turned up. They had driven up from Plymouth!!

And then Aly and Tony England arrived with their little dogs Wesley and Willow and the party was complete.  Aly had brought flags to wave. More wine, champagne and beer and it was time to go onto the platform.  John was there to take more pics and then I panicked because I though we might be on the wrong platform. 

Bridget took me to one side and gave me a bit of a talking to!  Thanks Bridge. I have been calm ever since. I don't dare panic in case you get to hear about it!

Just before we left Bridget gave us a survival kit which included string, an olive pick (essential) salt pepper etc etc and a miniature of port and a little bottle of balsamic vinegar dressing. She is a classy lady

And then the train was coming. We got on and John came too. Tony England is taking pics and everyone is waving and shouting goodbye and it is really the most terrific send off we could have wished for.

To all of you who came you made our day. We cannot tell you how much it meant to us.

We got safely to London and that will be another story.


Friday 19 April 2013

Feeling quite emotional

Today is very strange. Tony is working all day and I have cleaned the house, done the washing, finished the packing and read the paper. I wonder how Grandpa felt the day before he went?

Of course he was a 21 year old single man setting out for a destination which he would have known little about.

We can Google our route if we want to, we can see from Google Earth the places we will go to and we have guide books which tell us what to expect, how to behave so as not to offend the people whose countries we visit and the advice of many friends who have been to the places we will go.

Grandpa left his parents, brother and friends in Wales and did not have known what to expect. He would have known his route but will probably not have known anyone who had travelled it before. He would not have known when he would see his parents and family again.

He says in his diary that he sent post cards from his trip but later, once he was living in Shanghai, we read in Grannies letters "I think I will send this letter via Russia" She would have read in the North China Herald, for whom she wrote the Lady's Page, the list of ships and the routes they were taking after leaving Shanghai and would have had to decide which one to send her letters on. Or as in the case I have seen decide to send the letters by rail in a route that was the reverse of Grandpas.

We are only going for 7 weeks, we are of course leaving our children and grandchildren and friends and will miss them a lot. However we can email, Skype and if we really want to telephone home.

After all the planning and the discussing with all our long suffering family and friends we are ready to go and can't wait

Shanghai here we come!

Thursday 18 April 2013

Plans changed

Don't be alarmed by the title of this post! We were due to travel from London on Sunday to Ramsgate and go as foot passengers on a freight ferry to Ostend and then on to Brussels by train
Sadly the ferry has been cancelled on Sunday so we have reverted to our original plan to go from London to Brussels. It is a pity but we did try
So far the only parts of Grandpas trip we are not able to replicate are the ferries. When Grandpa got to China it was not possible to travel to Beijing so he went to a place called Dalian and caught a ferry which took three days to get to Shanghai. We knew that this is no longer possible but had hoped to do the Ostend bit. It does mean we get to Brussels by noon so an extra half day there

Out of the blue

This week has been mad already and we are only halfway through.
On Monday I had an email from an International TV Channel in Shanghai. They wanted information about our trip as they cover international stories and think they will cover our visit!
Yesterday I had a call from a news agency in the South West asking the same thing!
The Chinese connection came from an email I sent many weeks ago to the British Consul in Shanghai. Rob (Brett) had suggested they might be interested and although they did not respond they clearly have not ignored my email.
Sending emails with attachments to Shanghai has proved tricky, they lingered in my outbox for a day or two but they decided to go this morning so we will have to see what they make of all the stuff I sent them.
The news agency here have prepared a news release that they will put out on Monday after we have gone so look out for stuff about our trip in the papers.
They contacted us through the First Great Western Company who gave us free first class tickets from Southampton to Cardiff and from Cardiff to London and the train company want some publicity!
Apparently they will be in Barry to see us off!
It is interesting how over many months now people have said to us "this is a really good story why don't you tell the media" We have not done so because we shied away from taking the professional video camera we were offered and have not thought any more about it till now.

Saturday 13 April 2013

A sailing weekend?????

We had arranged to go sailing in company with our friends Tony and Aly and Brian and Ruth this weekend. We planned to go to Salcombe on what would have been our first sail of the season!
However the best laid plans almost always go awry where sailing plans are concerned and luckily for us they went awry yesterday.
We knew that there would be no sailing so Tony and I suggested that the others join us for supper on the boat on Friday.
At this point Aly had to admit that she had hatched a plot.
So no sailing, no supper on our boat but instead the most wonderful evening at Jolly Jacks here at Mayflower Marine.
The idea was a Chinese supper to get us in the mood for our trip and as a goodbye from our friends here. The chef not only cooked the usual menu for a busy restaurant but also cooked a brilliant Chinese meal for 14 of us.
What a great idea, thank you all for coming and making our last weekend before our trip so memorable. Tone says he is surprised I remember anything but I just think he is insinuating that I drank more than anyone else which is simply not true! We are lucky to have such lovely friends and we loved every minute of it.
See you all when we get back.
I have put some pics in the Gallery