I am having problems loading pictures onto the blog now but will keep trying!!
If you can't find the pics will you make a comment so I can investigate please
Liz
Wednesday 12 June 2013
Monday 10 June 2013
The last word
Well this blog is done. Was the trip worth it? You will know if you have been reading it that it was everything we had hoped for plus a lot more
Since we have been back someone, (yes you Aly) asked what were the three highlights.
The first was the wonderful send off we got at Barry, the last was the wonderful welcome home we got on Saturday and the other was the 7 weeks in between.
No one thing stands out. I just have a feeling of a trip that was so important to me for so long being so well worth it that I will never be able to tell you how wonderful it feels to have been able to do it.
To have followed Grandpa so closely and to find that so little had changed
To have visited Warsaw where he went before the war and to find the once totally destroyed city restored as Grandpa would have seen it
To have visited Red Square and Tiananmen Square in the same trip and to feel the history of these two places and all that has happened since Grandpa went that way
To sit beside the biggest lake in the world in the middle of Siberia in the sunshine with a minus 5 degree temperature and see the same wonderful snow capped mountains that Grandpa saw
To cross the border where he did and find that the camels he saw were not there now!!
To arrive in Shanghai in the same place he did 100 years on. That station is certainly different now
To see the places he and Granny saw, the home they lived in and the church they attended and the office he went to every day
To see the wonders of the world. The beautiful Yangtze River, The Extraordinary Great Wall, the amazing Terra Cotta Warriors, there long before Grandpa was there but not discovered till comparatively recently,
To see the little pandas so safe at the Panda Base from where their future is ensured
To see the cormorant fisherman which was a long held ambition too and the lovely Li River and the extraordinary landscape in that area
To meet little Yang Yang and her granny living in their simple home and welcoming us when we visited
To see the rice terraces that have been cultivated for 100s of years
To meet our guides, Tatiana, Natalia, Ira, Jane, Eric, Mody, Diane, Judy, Paul, Karen, Helen and the rest who made the trip so much more rewarding
To meet Ruy and Karen and to see their lovely house and garden and to visit the places they know and love
To be so lucky. Yes it was worth it and I will never forget the people and the places.
As a final word and sorry if this is a bit soppy I want to say that no travelling companion would beat Tone. We had a great time together and wherever we go next we will have a great time again. Thank you!
There will be some more pics going on in the next couple of days
Since we have been back someone, (yes you Aly) asked what were the three highlights.
The first was the wonderful send off we got at Barry, the last was the wonderful welcome home we got on Saturday and the other was the 7 weeks in between.
No one thing stands out. I just have a feeling of a trip that was so important to me for so long being so well worth it that I will never be able to tell you how wonderful it feels to have been able to do it.
To have followed Grandpa so closely and to find that so little had changed
To have visited Warsaw where he went before the war and to find the once totally destroyed city restored as Grandpa would have seen it
To have visited Red Square and Tiananmen Square in the same trip and to feel the history of these two places and all that has happened since Grandpa went that way
To sit beside the biggest lake in the world in the middle of Siberia in the sunshine with a minus 5 degree temperature and see the same wonderful snow capped mountains that Grandpa saw
To cross the border where he did and find that the camels he saw were not there now!!
To arrive in Shanghai in the same place he did 100 years on. That station is certainly different now
To see the places he and Granny saw, the home they lived in and the church they attended and the office he went to every day
To see the wonders of the world. The beautiful Yangtze River, The Extraordinary Great Wall, the amazing Terra Cotta Warriors, there long before Grandpa was there but not discovered till comparatively recently,
To see the little pandas so safe at the Panda Base from where their future is ensured
To see the cormorant fisherman which was a long held ambition too and the lovely Li River and the extraordinary landscape in that area
To meet little Yang Yang and her granny living in their simple home and welcoming us when we visited
To see the rice terraces that have been cultivated for 100s of years
To meet our guides, Tatiana, Natalia, Ira, Jane, Eric, Mody, Diane, Judy, Paul, Karen, Helen and the rest who made the trip so much more rewarding
To meet Ruy and Karen and to see their lovely house and garden and to visit the places they know and love
To be so lucky. Yes it was worth it and I will never forget the people and the places.
As a final word and sorry if this is a bit soppy I want to say that no travelling companion would beat Tone. We had a great time together and wherever we go next we will have a great time again. Thank you!
There will be some more pics going on in the next couple of days
Civilised myths
I just want to end by commenting on a couple of myths!
We keep being told that China has had 3,000 years of civilisation, 5 or 4 or3 dynasties ( dependant upon who you are listening to) so being the pedant that I am I have read extensively on China's history and looked up the dictionary meaning of civilisation, talked and listened to masses of people.
Civilisation is; "social organization of a high order," China has never had this ---ever! It has had a series of dynasties separated by hundreds of years of civil wars, mass slaughter, hunger, deprivation and autocratic unelected despotism. The great works and monuments tell their own tales (magnificent though they are), The Forbidden city was built to prevent emperors being assassinated, it housed their family and retinue of 9,000 and kept out the people and any contender for the title. The great wall was built by slave labour and garrisoned by conscripts who were sent to the wall with their families and had to feed themselves and their families without pay. Even the rulers were not safe from the slaughter, one General advised the Emperor that in his professional view the start of winter was not a good time to start a war. Just because he had voiced a contrary opinion to that of the Emperor he and 20,000 of his family, friends, acquaintances, schoolmates etc. were slaughtered to teach everyone a lesson. It has continued right up to today, the ruling one party state will not condone opposition in any form, corruption is rife the people oppressed.
The second myth is in the name of the country, The Peoples Republic of China. The dictionary defines a Republic as; "a nation or government in which the supreme power rests with all the citizens and is exercised by representatives elected by them".
They are, to put it politely, having a laugh are they not? Power rests with the people! Representatives elected! Tell that to those evicted from their lands prevented from, voicing an opinion, prevented from reading, hearing or watching what they want, forced to have abortions (unless you are rich enough to pay the fine (bribe) to have a second baby) The power rests with an elite 350 party members who allocate each other the spoils and continue to oppress the population, not much change from the past 3,4 or 5 dynasties then!
I know it may sound odd after such a wonderful adventure, seeing fabulous sites and meeting such a wide selection of incredible people but as long as we all, individually or collectively as nations condone governments and "civilisations" like this the world will never be a better place for untold millions of our fellow citizens.
Tony
We keep being told that China has had 3,000 years of civilisation, 5 or 4 or3 dynasties ( dependant upon who you are listening to) so being the pedant that I am I have read extensively on China's history and looked up the dictionary meaning of civilisation, talked and listened to masses of people.
Civilisation is; "social organization of a high order," China has never had this ---ever! It has had a series of dynasties separated by hundreds of years of civil wars, mass slaughter, hunger, deprivation and autocratic unelected despotism. The great works and monuments tell their own tales (magnificent though they are), The Forbidden city was built to prevent emperors being assassinated, it housed their family and retinue of 9,000 and kept out the people and any contender for the title. The great wall was built by slave labour and garrisoned by conscripts who were sent to the wall with their families and had to feed themselves and their families without pay. Even the rulers were not safe from the slaughter, one General advised the Emperor that in his professional view the start of winter was not a good time to start a war. Just because he had voiced a contrary opinion to that of the Emperor he and 20,000 of his family, friends, acquaintances, schoolmates etc. were slaughtered to teach everyone a lesson. It has continued right up to today, the ruling one party state will not condone opposition in any form, corruption is rife the people oppressed.
The second myth is in the name of the country, The Peoples Republic of China. The dictionary defines a Republic as; "a nation or government in which the supreme power rests with all the citizens and is exercised by representatives elected by them".
They are, to put it politely, having a laugh are they not? Power rests with the people! Representatives elected! Tell that to those evicted from their lands prevented from, voicing an opinion, prevented from reading, hearing or watching what they want, forced to have abortions (unless you are rich enough to pay the fine (bribe) to have a second baby) The power rests with an elite 350 party members who allocate each other the spoils and continue to oppress the population, not much change from the past 3,4 or 5 dynasties then!
I know it may sound odd after such a wonderful adventure, seeing fabulous sites and meeting such a wide selection of incredible people but as long as we all, individually or collectively as nations condone governments and "civilisations" like this the world will never be a better place for untold millions of our fellow citizens.
Tony
One last day
Friday 7th June
Today is the last day of this great adventure. Ruy and Karen suggested that we drive to an area of old rice paddy fields and have a walk. This we did and it was quite amazing. There were little hamlets with quite large houses. Some were occupied and others not but they were surrounded by overgrown paddy fields that had not been farmed for many years. There was a path through the area which wound through the old field system and alongside a stream. The sun was hot and we were glad of the dappled light to reduce the glare.
We heard and saw many new birds. These include the red winged crested cuckoo. Karen and Ruy are very experienced birdwatchers and this bird can be enticed into the open by imitating its call. Karen did this expertly and sure enough it came very close to us. Ruy thought it might think that Karen was a competing male and might attack. It is 16" so a big bird and a fly past might have been very alarming!!
Ruy could see it but without experience we couldn't but we certainly heard it responding to Karen. Amazing!
We also saw some wonderful butterflies in brilliant colours. I was able to get some good photos. See gallery. It was a terrific walk and we loved it. Really hot though and we were glad to repair to the Jockey Club for lunch (like you do)
A lovely visit to an elegant place. We were glad of the cool interior after our walk. One of the family connections I had recently discovered is that the San Miguel Brewery was started in the Philippines by an ancestor!! Yes the stuff you might drink when you are on holiday in the Med. The one to look for is the one still bottled in the Philippines which they had in their list at the Jockey Club so of course I tried some and very nice it is too!
Back to the house where we went through some more photos and recorded them so I can look at them when I get home.
Nelson is really looking so much better since we got here. Hopefully he will continue to improve and hold his own with the other dogs in the family!
We had a look round Ruy and Karen's garden which is partly garden and mainly jungle!!
There is some lawn and a 3060 year old stone circle (yes you read that correctly!) When Ruys parents built the house 60 years go they had some excavation done in the stone circle and found that it was 3000 years old then. They have no idea what it was for but it is at the top of the mountain so in a prominent position. Very interesting.
They also have a pool which at this time of the year has tadpoles in it and won't be cleaned out till they have grown up.
Apart from the cultivated bits and the lawn the garden is wild and has boar, snakes, civet, monkeys, deer, tree frogs, etc. etc. etc. Quite an adventure to go out in it!! We didn't!
There are also many many no-see-ums which bit my legs unmercifully in the short time we were out there.
From the garden there are wonderful views through the trees of the islands in the bay far below.
What a wonderful place to live. Ruy and Karen spend much time and energy trying to protect this lovely corner of the New Territories against developers. Long may they be successful.
After supper we drove to the airport where we bid a fond farewell to our new found cousins. What a wonderful time we have had in Hong Kong. So much to see, so much to talk abut and so much to look forward to when we see them again.
It is not possible to say how much we have enjoyed this last part of our trip. Thank you Ruy and Karen for being such great hosts. Come and see us in England as soon as you can bear to leave the beautiful place that is your home.
Today is the last day of this great adventure. Ruy and Karen suggested that we drive to an area of old rice paddy fields and have a walk. This we did and it was quite amazing. There were little hamlets with quite large houses. Some were occupied and others not but they were surrounded by overgrown paddy fields that had not been farmed for many years. There was a path through the area which wound through the old field system and alongside a stream. The sun was hot and we were glad of the dappled light to reduce the glare.
We heard and saw many new birds. These include the red winged crested cuckoo. Karen and Ruy are very experienced birdwatchers and this bird can be enticed into the open by imitating its call. Karen did this expertly and sure enough it came very close to us. Ruy thought it might think that Karen was a competing male and might attack. It is 16" so a big bird and a fly past might have been very alarming!!
Ruy could see it but without experience we couldn't but we certainly heard it responding to Karen. Amazing!
We also saw some wonderful butterflies in brilliant colours. I was able to get some good photos. See gallery. It was a terrific walk and we loved it. Really hot though and we were glad to repair to the Jockey Club for lunch (like you do)
A lovely visit to an elegant place. We were glad of the cool interior after our walk. One of the family connections I had recently discovered is that the San Miguel Brewery was started in the Philippines by an ancestor!! Yes the stuff you might drink when you are on holiday in the Med. The one to look for is the one still bottled in the Philippines which they had in their list at the Jockey Club so of course I tried some and very nice it is too!
Back to the house where we went through some more photos and recorded them so I can look at them when I get home.
Nelson is really looking so much better since we got here. Hopefully he will continue to improve and hold his own with the other dogs in the family!
We had a look round Ruy and Karen's garden which is partly garden and mainly jungle!!
There is some lawn and a 3060 year old stone circle (yes you read that correctly!) When Ruys parents built the house 60 years go they had some excavation done in the stone circle and found that it was 3000 years old then. They have no idea what it was for but it is at the top of the mountain so in a prominent position. Very interesting.
They also have a pool which at this time of the year has tadpoles in it and won't be cleaned out till they have grown up.
Apart from the cultivated bits and the lawn the garden is wild and has boar, snakes, civet, monkeys, deer, tree frogs, etc. etc. etc. Quite an adventure to go out in it!! We didn't!
There are also many many no-see-ums which bit my legs unmercifully in the short time we were out there.
From the garden there are wonderful views through the trees of the islands in the bay far below.
What a wonderful place to live. Ruy and Karen spend much time and energy trying to protect this lovely corner of the New Territories against developers. Long may they be successful.
After supper we drove to the airport where we bid a fond farewell to our new found cousins. What a wonderful time we have had in Hong Kong. So much to see, so much to talk abut and so much to look forward to when we see them again.
It is not possible to say how much we have enjoyed this last part of our trip. Thank you Ruy and Karen for being such great hosts. Come and see us in England as soon as you can bear to leave the beautiful place that is your home.
Welcome Home!!
7th/8th June
After saying Goodbye to Ruy and Karen we checked in for our flight to London.
Fortunately I looked at my phone when I was turning it off to see a text from Lara, Tones daughter. She was offering to collect us from the airport!! We had planned to take a coach down to Southampton but we were due to arrive at 4.40am so knew we would have to wait for some time.
I phoned Lara and in spite of the flight being much earlier than she had though she agreed to collect us. She lives about 20 minutes from the airport!
You may remember many blogs ago I told you we had used Tesco air miles to pay for this flight!!
Tone said we would have to travel on the wing but of course this was not the case and we checked in and boarded on time to comfortable seats and a full plane.
Tone went straight to sleep as he always does but I stayed awake long enough to have a red wine and to read a bit more of my book.
We slept really well considering and ours was the first plane to land at Heathrow on Saturday morning. True to her word Lara was there as bright as a button in the early morning.
We arrived back at home at about 7.30 to a wonderful surprise. Charlie, Miche, Ellie, Emily and Ed were at our house. There were balloons, banners welcoming us home and the delicious smells of a Full English breakfast coming from the kitchen.
Thanks to you all for such a wonderful homecoming.
I missed you all so much so seeing you so soon after we got home was very special.
Cath called quite early as did Emma and Sally so we had a great day on our first day back.
After saying Goodbye to Ruy and Karen we checked in for our flight to London.
Fortunately I looked at my phone when I was turning it off to see a text from Lara, Tones daughter. She was offering to collect us from the airport!! We had planned to take a coach down to Southampton but we were due to arrive at 4.40am so knew we would have to wait for some time.
I phoned Lara and in spite of the flight being much earlier than she had though she agreed to collect us. She lives about 20 minutes from the airport!
You may remember many blogs ago I told you we had used Tesco air miles to pay for this flight!!
Tone said we would have to travel on the wing but of course this was not the case and we checked in and boarded on time to comfortable seats and a full plane.
Tone went straight to sleep as he always does but I stayed awake long enough to have a red wine and to read a bit more of my book.
We slept really well considering and ours was the first plane to land at Heathrow on Saturday morning. True to her word Lara was there as bright as a button in the early morning.
We arrived back at home at about 7.30 to a wonderful surprise. Charlie, Miche, Ellie, Emily and Ed were at our house. There were balloons, banners welcoming us home and the delicious smells of a Full English breakfast coming from the kitchen.
Thanks to you all for such a wonderful homecoming.
I missed you all so much so seeing you so soon after we got home was very special.
Cath called quite early as did Emma and Sally so we had a great day on our first day back.
To the Doctors, to see some trains and strange foods and some wonderful Orchids
Thursday 6th June
Today we all went out after breakfast to visit amongst other places a train museum. You may remember when we were on the Trans Siberian Railway Tone was very interested when we saw some of the beautifully restored engines at the stations in the middle of Siberia. He was no less interested in the railway museum near to where Karen and Ruy live. Tone and Ruy were like two small boys!
Ruy used to use the line we were on when he went to school as a boy and the trains were very similar too!
There is a steam engine there that had been used in Hong Kong and then sent to the Philippines where it had been fitted with a spark arrester (like you do!) and used in the sugar plantations. When it was rediscovered it was brought back to Hong Kong and restored and with great ceremony put back where it had started!! The things some people will do!!
The ticket office was not unlike the old one at Barry from where we had come so there was a certain continuity to it all.
But before all this Tone went to the doctor with his dreadful cough which was not getting any better. Dr Wang Yu (I think) said Tone has bronchitis and infected sinus and gave him six different pills. Some were to be taken three times a day, some twice and some once so we needed to prepare a flow chart so he could get it right! Hopefully this little lot will help.
From the train museum we visited a wonderful market where there were all sorts of things for sale including chickens feet and some weird fruits and vegetables
We tasted some lovely peanut and toffee sweets plus some other delicious sweet treats made by the stallholder. He heard me coughing and offered me something out of a jar!! "Don't eat that!" said Ruy. It was of course ginger and it would have been me going to the 24 hour vet or Dr Yu next if I had eaten it!!
Our last stop of the day was to Kadoorie Farm and Botanical Gardens. This farm had been started to provide training for farmers in organic farming and then it developed to help local people, particularly widows to farm by giving them various animals and by training them too. Today it is more of a botanical garden and has some animals and birds, mainly rescued ones, and they do research too. There is a Gloria Barretto Orchid Sanctuary which Ruy was proud to show us. Gloria and Ruy both discovered new orchids and last year Ruy discovered a butterfly that is new to Hong Kong.
After lunch we drove round the farm which covered a huge area and give wonderful view over the mountains and jungle of this part of the New Territories.
Fabulous butterflies and birds as well as flowers and trees. A wonderful opportunity so see this part of Hong Kong. One that tourists probably do not see. Thank you Ruy and Karen
Dog alarm - Catching up - then a supper with no noodles and no dumplings!!
Wednesday 5th June
When we got up this morning Ruy and Karen were not up and after we had had a cup of tea and they still did not appear we wondered what was going on!
When they did surface they were looking very tired!
In the night one of their dogs was ill. Nelson is a golden retriever and is quite old. He is a new addition to their family of 10 dogs. I think he was abandoned by previous owners and being a soft hearted pair Ruy and Karen had given him a home.
They had taken Nelson to the 24 hour vet and were there for some time in the middle of the night. I think they said they left the house at 2.30 and got back at 4.30 am with a significantly lighter bank balance. Nelson however was full of pills and potions and hopefully on the mend.
Ruy and Karen were remarkably sanguine about it all and so our day started!
After breakfast Ruy had to go to a funeral and then into his office in town.
In view of the night they had had we did not make any plans for the day. We stayed at home and caught up with the blog, we read some great books about Shanghai and Hong Kong that they have and I did some more work on my family tree and on the information we have about Granny and her family.
Several queries were solved. Had Granny and Grandpa ever been to Hong Kong? Yes probably on their honeymoon if not before.
The houseboat that I thought was called Loiterer and was in Shanghai was actually called Lontra and was in Hong Kong. This means that the film we have on Granny and Grandpa on the houseboat was probably taken in Hong Kong and not Japan or Shanghai as we thought.
Ruys mother Gloria Barretto was an expert on orchids and was writing a book on Orchids at the time of her death. Karen and Ruy finished the book and published it. It is a beautiful book with wonderful pictures in it.
After a lazy day for us and a well earned quiet day for Karen we went out in the evening. Not for dumplings! Not for noodles! not even for stir fried rice! But for a pizza!!
We picked Ruy up from the bus station and met a couple of their friends at a restaurant they use once a week, And it was great!
Another great day in Hong Kong.
When we got up this morning Ruy and Karen were not up and after we had had a cup of tea and they still did not appear we wondered what was going on!
When they did surface they were looking very tired!
In the night one of their dogs was ill. Nelson is a golden retriever and is quite old. He is a new addition to their family of 10 dogs. I think he was abandoned by previous owners and being a soft hearted pair Ruy and Karen had given him a home.
They had taken Nelson to the 24 hour vet and were there for some time in the middle of the night. I think they said they left the house at 2.30 and got back at 4.30 am with a significantly lighter bank balance. Nelson however was full of pills and potions and hopefully on the mend.
Ruy and Karen were remarkably sanguine about it all and so our day started!
After breakfast Ruy had to go to a funeral and then into his office in town.
In view of the night they had had we did not make any plans for the day. We stayed at home and caught up with the blog, we read some great books about Shanghai and Hong Kong that they have and I did some more work on my family tree and on the information we have about Granny and her family.
Several queries were solved. Had Granny and Grandpa ever been to Hong Kong? Yes probably on their honeymoon if not before.
The houseboat that I thought was called Loiterer and was in Shanghai was actually called Lontra and was in Hong Kong. This means that the film we have on Granny and Grandpa on the houseboat was probably taken in Hong Kong and not Japan or Shanghai as we thought.
Ruys mother Gloria Barretto was an expert on orchids and was writing a book on Orchids at the time of her death. Karen and Ruy finished the book and published it. It is a beautiful book with wonderful pictures in it.
After a lazy day for us and a well earned quiet day for Karen we went out in the evening. Not for dumplings! Not for noodles! not even for stir fried rice! But for a pizza!!
We picked Ruy up from the bus station and met a couple of their friends at a restaurant they use once a week, And it was great!
Another great day in Hong Kong.
We are home!!
10th June
Hang on a minute you might be saying, what about the days you were in Hong Kong, and what about your trip home?
You may well ask!!
Yesterday when I wanted to finish off the blog we could not access it. It was as if we were back in China and was really frustrating.
So I will tell you what happened in those last few days but using my diary and memory instead of doing it on the day. I will do a posting for each day so you can see what a wonderful ending to our trip we had
Hang on a minute you might be saying, what about the days you were in Hong Kong, and what about your trip home?
You may well ask!!
Yesterday when I wanted to finish off the blog we could not access it. It was as if we were back in China and was really frustrating.
So I will tell you what happened in those last few days but using my diary and memory instead of doing it on the day. I will do a posting for each day so you can see what a wonderful ending to our trip we had
Saturday 8 June 2013
Ducks, museums and a scrummy lunch and the red silk!
still 4th June
After talking so much rubbish we discussed a plan for the day. Ruy and Karen live at Tai Po which is in the New Territories and is a beautiful green area with mountains and sea and islands and wonderful wild life. More of this later
Karen suggested we go over to Hong Kong Island on the Star Ferry and see the Maritime Museum in its new quarters and the Museum of Medical Science which she said was interested. With such a contrast this sounded great so after breakfast we set off.
The weather is hot and humid and we did not rush about much. Parking the car on a rooftop car park close to the ferry we first saw a huge six storey high yellow duck. Just like children have in the bath. You may have read about him. He is quite cute but is rather bizarrely placed in such a prominent place in the harbour
As we walked down to the ferry we walked by crowds of visitors who were having their picture taken with the duck in the background or with the numerous other smaller ducks that were placed on the walkway down to the Star Ferry
The Star Ferries go back and forth over to Hong Kong Island all day taking workers and tourists over the harbour to the main part of Hong Kong City
We landed by the Maritime museum which we visited. It was really interesting to add some more details to things like the Opium Wars and the tea and silk trade in China. Granny mentions these in her writing s on many occasions back in the 20s and 30th so it was good to see several references in the museum.
My Great Grandfather worked for Jardines who were traders and they too are mentioned many times The ships they used are also mentioned in some of the writings and the photographs we have so I will research whether the family ever travelled on the Company's ships when they came back to England. Who knows.
We were in the museum for some time and then had a scrummy lunch in a harbour side restaurant before taking a cab up to the Museum of Medical Science. This is an important building because it was build after bubonic plague hit Hong Kong and many people died. Research suggests that is was in Hong Kong that it was discovered that rats were the cause of the plague and there are some gruesome models of medical students dissecting rats and making the discovery that they carry the plague.
There was also interesting displays covering SARS and Bird Flu and altogether the museum gave some interesting insight to these diseases
After this museum we walked down some very old streets in the area that our families had lived in the past. Lovely old buildings and other evidence of a grander past.
I was surprised that we could be in such a big city, full of high rise buildings and still feel that it was not the overbearing place I had thought it might be.
Lovely day and finished off by a purchase of red and black silk that you may see me wearing at Christmas if I have the courage to take my scissors to it and a visit to a favourite spot of Karen's called the Honeymoon Dessert (I think) fabulous ice-cream based desserts to die for!
A great first day with my cousin and more catching up to come over the next couple of days
Talking Rubbish
4th June
Hong Kong
Today when I got up I heard Tone and Ruy talking about a new proposal for managing household waste in Hong Kong. Tone was telling Ruy that I had been involved in a similar plan in Hampshire a long time ago. You may not remember or you may never have known that I was responsible in Hampshire for introducing a Waste Disposal plan for the whole of Hampshire about 20 years ago. I talk rubbish better than anyone you know!
Tony was telling Ruy this and it was suggested that it might be encouraging to the planners if I wrote a supportive letter to the daily papers. Having spent a lot of my early political life writing letters to the editor of my then local paper this seemed like a good plan. So I did some homework and was in my element doing something that I was very interested in and going back to my political roots too. By the end of the week the letter was written and sent off and we will wait to see if it is printed and if there is any response, I was pleased to see so many similarities proposed that are the same as we did in Hampshire so successfully.
It seems very odd to me that a fast moving, energetic, prosperous city and territory like Hong Kong could not seem to grasp the basic benefits of a proper waste management system in financial, environmental and power generation terms but we did not have a lot of time to come to a well thought out conclusion, perhaps there may be an opportunity to help further. (Tony)
Hong Kong
Today when I got up I heard Tone and Ruy talking about a new proposal for managing household waste in Hong Kong. Tone was telling Ruy that I had been involved in a similar plan in Hampshire a long time ago. You may not remember or you may never have known that I was responsible in Hampshire for introducing a Waste Disposal plan for the whole of Hampshire about 20 years ago. I talk rubbish better than anyone you know!
Tony was telling Ruy this and it was suggested that it might be encouraging to the planners if I wrote a supportive letter to the daily papers. Having spent a lot of my early political life writing letters to the editor of my then local paper this seemed like a good plan. So I did some homework and was in my element doing something that I was very interested in and going back to my political roots too. By the end of the week the letter was written and sent off and we will wait to see if it is printed and if there is any response, I was pleased to see so many similarities proposed that are the same as we did in Hampshire so successfully.
It seems very odd to me that a fast moving, energetic, prosperous city and territory like Hong Kong could not seem to grasp the basic benefits of a proper waste management system in financial, environmental and power generation terms but we did not have a lot of time to come to a well thought out conclusion, perhaps there may be an opportunity to help further. (Tony)
Keep it in the Family
3rd June
Today we flew from Guilin to Hong Kong. We had been invited by my cousin Ruy Barretto and his wife Karen to stay with them whilst we were in Hong Kong and as we had never met them we hoped they would not regret their generosity!
Arriving at Hong Kong airport we did not know who we were looking for and although we noticed the man with the check shirt and the lady with the red hair we were not sure if it was them. Ruy said he saw a family resemblance and assumed we were who they were waiting for! So all was well. Hugs and kisses all round and the start of a wonderful visit to Hong Kong.
I actually saw two people smiling at what I thought were the people behind us but I was wrong it was Ruy and Karen! (T)
It was so good to meet them after all this time. We had been in correspondence by email over the years as Ruys Grandmother and my Great Grandmother were sisters and Ruy has a huge amount of information on the family.
They drove us back to Tai Po where they live in a house that Ruys parents build 60 years ago. They have a huge garden much of it wild jungle and consequently there is a lot of wild life. "Don't go outside by yourselves and don't go out with bare feet!"
In reply to our wondering why not we were told that there are amongst other things 23 different sorts of snake that they have seen in the garden over the years plus various other wild animals. Recently Ruy has seen and photographed a large python!
Clearly we were going to do as we were told. "for once in your life" said Tone!
Large gins and a delicious supper followed plus a great deal of catching up with people in our families. Over the time we were there we discovered that a boat that I had thought was in Shanghai and called Loiterer was actually in Hong Kong and called Lontra. (not sure of spelling)
This proved that Granny and Grandpa almost certainly spent some of their honeymoon in Hong Kong which we were not aware of till now. I say this because in the series of photos we have including Granny and Grandpas honeymoon the boat is mentioned and they spent some time on her!
It is great to be here although I must say the thought of the big python will certainly keep me in my place for the next few days!
Today we flew from Guilin to Hong Kong. We had been invited by my cousin Ruy Barretto and his wife Karen to stay with them whilst we were in Hong Kong and as we had never met them we hoped they would not regret their generosity!
Arriving at Hong Kong airport we did not know who we were looking for and although we noticed the man with the check shirt and the lady with the red hair we were not sure if it was them. Ruy said he saw a family resemblance and assumed we were who they were waiting for! So all was well. Hugs and kisses all round and the start of a wonderful visit to Hong Kong.
I actually saw two people smiling at what I thought were the people behind us but I was wrong it was Ruy and Karen! (T)
It was so good to meet them after all this time. We had been in correspondence by email over the years as Ruys Grandmother and my Great Grandmother were sisters and Ruy has a huge amount of information on the family.
They drove us back to Tai Po where they live in a house that Ruys parents build 60 years ago. They have a huge garden much of it wild jungle and consequently there is a lot of wild life. "Don't go outside by yourselves and don't go out with bare feet!"
In reply to our wondering why not we were told that there are amongst other things 23 different sorts of snake that they have seen in the garden over the years plus various other wild animals. Recently Ruy has seen and photographed a large python!
Clearly we were going to do as we were told. "for once in your life" said Tone!
Large gins and a delicious supper followed plus a great deal of catching up with people in our families. Over the time we were there we discovered that a boat that I had thought was in Shanghai and called Loiterer was actually in Hong Kong and called Lontra. (not sure of spelling)
This proved that Granny and Grandpa almost certainly spent some of their honeymoon in Hong Kong which we were not aware of till now. I say this because in the series of photos we have including Granny and Grandpas honeymoon the boat is mentioned and they spent some time on her!
It is great to be here although I must say the thought of the big python will certainly keep me in my place for the next few days!
And so the end is nigh!!!
On 3rd June we had a slow start and walked back down to the car at about 11am. Having felt pretty rotten as we walked up it was nice to notice the wonderful scenery and the light as we returned down the 900 feet to the car park at the bottom of the hill. Actually it is by no means the bottom as we descended for many miles before we reached the river in the bottom of the valley but by now we were in the car so it was easy.
Well actually it was anything but easy as the road is dreadful. Landslides, road works and a very high river level made for an anxious drive for a good part of the drive back to the place where we had left our cases. One landslide had almost blocked the road and we were beginning to hope that we had left enough time to get to the airport for our flight to Hong Kong.
We had left enough time and it was a sad farewell to Helen and our driver who we had spent some lovely days with.
Helens enthusiasm for life and her job never went below nuclear. I imagine if you were not a happy soul yourself as we are for 99% of the time, she would be exhausting but we found her charming and a wonderful guide and were sorry to say goodbye.
At the airport we hoped the flight would be on time as my cousin Ruy and his wife Karen were meeting us in Hong Kong and we were really looking forward to meeting them. The plane did leave and arrive pretty much on time and this brought to an end the part of our trip organised in advance for us.
So a big thank you to Rail Select and to Audleys who made the arrangements. Rail Select did the bit up to Moscow and Audleys on to Hong Kong. They never said you should do this another way or it would be better if you went here first. They just took Grandpas Diary and made the arrangements for us to follow it as closely as you know we did.
We are now finishing our trip with a few days with Ruy and Karen and are looking forward to it very much
Well actually it was anything but easy as the road is dreadful. Landslides, road works and a very high river level made for an anxious drive for a good part of the drive back to the place where we had left our cases. One landslide had almost blocked the road and we were beginning to hope that we had left enough time to get to the airport for our flight to Hong Kong.
We had left enough time and it was a sad farewell to Helen and our driver who we had spent some lovely days with.
Helens enthusiasm for life and her job never went below nuclear. I imagine if you were not a happy soul yourself as we are for 99% of the time, she would be exhausting but we found her charming and a wonderful guide and were sorry to say goodbye.
At the airport we hoped the flight would be on time as my cousin Ruy and his wife Karen were meeting us in Hong Kong and we were really looking forward to meeting them. The plane did leave and arrive pretty much on time and this brought to an end the part of our trip organised in advance for us.
So a big thank you to Rail Select and to Audleys who made the arrangements. Rail Select did the bit up to Moscow and Audleys on to Hong Kong. They never said you should do this another way or it would be better if you went here first. They just took Grandpas Diary and made the arrangements for us to follow it as closely as you know we did.
We are now finishing our trip with a few days with Ruy and Karen and are looking forward to it very much
The Yao People - We attend a lock in
Still 2nd June
Once we returned from our walk Tone retired wounded for a couple of hours and Helen and I wandered through the village. I had asked her if she could arrange for me to take a photo of one of the Yao ladies I had seen in the village. These ladies don't cut their hair very often and wear it wound round their heads in a particular style that shows whether they have children of not depending on the way it is wound. Not only did she arrange the pic but two of the ladies were her friends and they agreed to show us how it is done!!
So we returned to their shop at 5 with Tone and the ladies took us into the back of their shop and locked the door!!
Then one of them showed us how she takes down and then puts back her hair. Yao women cut their hair when they are 16 and then not again. When they comb their hair they collect the hair and make it into another bunch and our lady had the one she had cut at 16 plus another piece at least as thick that she had collected up over the years.
They wash their hair, like their clothes, in the river and they rinse it using fermented liquid that has been used to cook rice!! Their hair is black and very thick and shiny so perhaps we might try it. Although I may not be eating much rice for a while once we get home so wont have any rice water!!
Then once she had her hair back up safely they sang us a song. These ladies were probably 45 and I don't think they will abandon these traditions. It will be interesting to see if their children keep them up. The daughter certainly had very long hair but it was not put up it just hung down her back in a shiny mass.
We were then invited to a concert in the evening at the school which was about 10 minutes walk from the hotel. Thank you, we said, yes please.
The concert was in the playground of the little school and started at 8 'ish. Tiny benches and stools were brought out and we were asked to sit in the middle of the front row and as has happened before the locals were taking pics of us and not the people performing! As you know we have been the object of some curiosity before and this was no exception. We were glad when the performance started and it as just like a caleigh. Music dancing and singing . A lovely evening to mark the end of the three days to celebrate the beginning of the rice growing season. More good luck and a great evening.
Once we returned from our walk Tone retired wounded for a couple of hours and Helen and I wandered through the village. I had asked her if she could arrange for me to take a photo of one of the Yao ladies I had seen in the village. These ladies don't cut their hair very often and wear it wound round their heads in a particular style that shows whether they have children of not depending on the way it is wound. Not only did she arrange the pic but two of the ladies were her friends and they agreed to show us how it is done!!
So we returned to their shop at 5 with Tone and the ladies took us into the back of their shop and locked the door!!
Then one of them showed us how she takes down and then puts back her hair. Yao women cut their hair when they are 16 and then not again. When they comb their hair they collect the hair and make it into another bunch and our lady had the one she had cut at 16 plus another piece at least as thick that she had collected up over the years.
They wash their hair, like their clothes, in the river and they rinse it using fermented liquid that has been used to cook rice!! Their hair is black and very thick and shiny so perhaps we might try it. Although I may not be eating much rice for a while once we get home so wont have any rice water!!
Then once she had her hair back up safely they sang us a song. These ladies were probably 45 and I don't think they will abandon these traditions. It will be interesting to see if their children keep them up. The daughter certainly had very long hair but it was not put up it just hung down her back in a shiny mass.
We were then invited to a concert in the evening at the school which was about 10 minutes walk from the hotel. Thank you, we said, yes please.
The concert was in the playground of the little school and started at 8 'ish. Tiny benches and stools were brought out and we were asked to sit in the middle of the front row and as has happened before the locals were taking pics of us and not the people performing! As you know we have been the object of some curiosity before and this was no exception. We were glad when the performance started and it as just like a caleigh. Music dancing and singing . A lovely evening to mark the end of the three days to celebrate the beginning of the rice growing season. More good luck and a great evening.
Walking and a bit wounded but with four treats to lighted our hearts!
Today 2nd June
We were to have done a very long six hour walk with the driver taking us to a village about 10m away and us walking back across the hills and rice terraces through several villages to the guesthouse! We decided thankfully that this was not a good idea and decided to take a walk to the next village walk of about 90 minutes each way. We set off down a steep stone path in a direction away from the path we had taken yesterday and soon we were right in amongst the rice terraces and there was no one about except for us. Up hill and down dale we were both suffering from the heat even though it did rain at time. Tone still coughing well.
We saw a lady picking vegetables as Helen calls everything that is green and is not beans. Helen asked her for me if I could take her picture as she had one of the cloaks we had seen before which is made of palm and is warm and waterproof. See pics. The lady agreed but not before straightening
her hair and her hat and taking off her glasses. This lady who is working miles from anywhere and still cares about how she looks for the pics is fantastic. She is eking out a living by growing two crops alongside each other. Vegetables like pak choy and Corn. She will take her vegetables to the market in the village where we are staying, as you have realised a difficult walk, and she will set them up beautifully arranged on a little stool or table and hope someone will buy them.
We climbed up to a lookout where we rested and I decided Tone had had enough. It did not take any of us much persuading to agree that the walk back to the village would be enough for us for one day.
And another treat was in store for us.
You may remember when Helen picked us up from the airport she sang some of her minority groups folk songs to us in the car on the drive to the hotel. She had promised to sing some more and this was the perfect spot. Surrounded by the most astounding views she sang several songs and then played on her gourd flute. Again haunting sounds and in a perfect place. She has only learned to play the flute over the last 2 years and is very good. It was a lovely musical interlude.
And then another treat was in store for us
We started to walk back to the village and as we went we saw more and more people working in the rice terraces. Helen said she had never seen so many before and we stopped several times to watch. One man mending the banks of the terraces and cutting little notches in the bank to let the water cascade down into the next level. A couple ploughing together. She pulling the plough and him pushing it. They had a pole between them hooked onto their shoulders to keep them the correct distance apart and both wearing the cloaks made of palm leaves we have seen before. And then a man ploughing using his water buffalo. They were all working in terraces which were very narrow. The water buffalo just made two passed through the terrace and it was done!
This was the first day of the planting season and so we also saw some farmers planting the rice as you will all have seen on the telly
An amazing sight.
Then the fourth treat.
As we neared the village we heard fire crackers in the lower part of the rice terraces. Helen was beside herself with excitement. A wedding she said and clapped her hands with glee. We are so lucky she said again and again!
And we were. It is the custom when there is a wedding for the brides family to process round the rice terraces in a single file. The town band leads with various instruments. They were not as pretty as Helens gourd flute! Then the band is followed by the ladies all in their best costumes which are white embroidered cloth instead of the black they wear to work in. The bride was about fourth in line and they all had red umbrellas. There were at least fifty of them all walking round the rims of the terraces in the mud!! and the occasional rain! Following the ladies were men carrying boxes on bamboo poles between them. The boxes were laden with presents. Then more people carrying presents of wine, rice, the local bacon which is black with being smoked and is VERY fatty! Then I think Dad and a few male relatives . Every now and then there would be more fire crackers as they walked. Up through the terraces, down through the village they went. They were going to the grooms house to meet his relatives before the wedding. Helen could not describe what the rest of the day entailed but to see this was again brilliant. And Helen you are right it is beautiful, and we are lucky.
We were to have done a very long six hour walk with the driver taking us to a village about 10m away and us walking back across the hills and rice terraces through several villages to the guesthouse! We decided thankfully that this was not a good idea and decided to take a walk to the next village walk of about 90 minutes each way. We set off down a steep stone path in a direction away from the path we had taken yesterday and soon we were right in amongst the rice terraces and there was no one about except for us. Up hill and down dale we were both suffering from the heat even though it did rain at time. Tone still coughing well.
We saw a lady picking vegetables as Helen calls everything that is green and is not beans. Helen asked her for me if I could take her picture as she had one of the cloaks we had seen before which is made of palm and is warm and waterproof. See pics. The lady agreed but not before straightening
her hair and her hat and taking off her glasses. This lady who is working miles from anywhere and still cares about how she looks for the pics is fantastic. She is eking out a living by growing two crops alongside each other. Vegetables like pak choy and Corn. She will take her vegetables to the market in the village where we are staying, as you have realised a difficult walk, and she will set them up beautifully arranged on a little stool or table and hope someone will buy them.
We climbed up to a lookout where we rested and I decided Tone had had enough. It did not take any of us much persuading to agree that the walk back to the village would be enough for us for one day.
And another treat was in store for us.
You may remember when Helen picked us up from the airport she sang some of her minority groups folk songs to us in the car on the drive to the hotel. She had promised to sing some more and this was the perfect spot. Surrounded by the most astounding views she sang several songs and then played on her gourd flute. Again haunting sounds and in a perfect place. She has only learned to play the flute over the last 2 years and is very good. It was a lovely musical interlude.
And then another treat was in store for us
We started to walk back to the village and as we went we saw more and more people working in the rice terraces. Helen said she had never seen so many before and we stopped several times to watch. One man mending the banks of the terraces and cutting little notches in the bank to let the water cascade down into the next level. A couple ploughing together. She pulling the plough and him pushing it. They had a pole between them hooked onto their shoulders to keep them the correct distance apart and both wearing the cloaks made of palm leaves we have seen before. And then a man ploughing using his water buffalo. They were all working in terraces which were very narrow. The water buffalo just made two passed through the terrace and it was done!
This was the first day of the planting season and so we also saw some farmers planting the rice as you will all have seen on the telly
An amazing sight.
Then the fourth treat.
As we neared the village we heard fire crackers in the lower part of the rice terraces. Helen was beside herself with excitement. A wedding she said and clapped her hands with glee. We are so lucky she said again and again!
And we were. It is the custom when there is a wedding for the brides family to process round the rice terraces in a single file. The town band leads with various instruments. They were not as pretty as Helens gourd flute! Then the band is followed by the ladies all in their best costumes which are white embroidered cloth instead of the black they wear to work in. The bride was about fourth in line and they all had red umbrellas. There were at least fifty of them all walking round the rims of the terraces in the mud!! and the occasional rain! Following the ladies were men carrying boxes on bamboo poles between them. The boxes were laden with presents. Then more people carrying presents of wine, rice, the local bacon which is black with being smoked and is VERY fatty! Then I think Dad and a few male relatives . Every now and then there would be more fire crackers as they walked. Up through the terraces, down through the village they went. They were going to the grooms house to meet his relatives before the wedding. Helen could not describe what the rest of the day entailed but to see this was again brilliant. And Helen you are right it is beautiful, and we are lucky.
Friday 7 June 2013
The Village in the Clouds
Our little guesthouse is really rustic. The bedroom is small and the bed is wooden and the mattress hard. The bathroom is simple and if you don't draw the curtain when you have a shower you wet everywhere, literally including the little roll of loo paper which seems to be rationed! So we learned to draw the curtain and we learned that you can sleep on hard beds if you have walked as far and as hard as we did!
And the view made me speechless. Oh I know I have said this before but if you looked out of your bedroom and saw only the roofs of the houses in the village and rice terraces as far as the eye could see. And if you had never seen anything like this before, which I don't expect you have, you would be speechless too. After all we have seen and done it still seems possible to be surprised again by another wonderful sight.
These rice terraces are ancient. They were originally made by farmers in the Tang Dynasty and have been kept up ever since. The terraces are being filled with water at the moment so you can see reflections of the sky in the water. It is quite extraordinary.
And the people from the local minorities still all wear the traditional costume. And they carry stuff up and down the mountain in bamboo baskets on their backs. Some visitors bring all their stuff up here by having it carried by these ladies and then get themselves carried up in a sedan chair too!!
We did the British thing and had a cup of tea before having a bit of an explore before supper. The guesthouse as usual had a long menu but a short list of things that were actually available. So we had what was available and very nice it was too.
And the view made me speechless. Oh I know I have said this before but if you looked out of your bedroom and saw only the roofs of the houses in the village and rice terraces as far as the eye could see. And if you had never seen anything like this before, which I don't expect you have, you would be speechless too. After all we have seen and done it still seems possible to be surprised again by another wonderful sight.
These rice terraces are ancient. They were originally made by farmers in the Tang Dynasty and have been kept up ever since. The terraces are being filled with water at the moment so you can see reflections of the sky in the water. It is quite extraordinary.
And the people from the local minorities still all wear the traditional costume. And they carry stuff up and down the mountain in bamboo baskets on their backs. Some visitors bring all their stuff up here by having it carried by these ladies and then get themselves carried up in a sedan chair too!!
We did the British thing and had a cup of tea before having a bit of an explore before supper. The guesthouse as usual had a long menu but a short list of things that were actually available. So we had what was available and very nice it was too.
Thursday 6 June 2013
UP and UP and UP
The drive to the Rice Terraces was eventful. The road, at
first good became increasingly bumpy and we climbed up through countryside
which was very rural and quiet except for the cicadas.
Then we met a river and the road ran alongside it on steep
banks
Then we saw our first landslide which only left enough room
for one car.
Then the river bank got steeper and the river very fast
running and deep in places
Then we saw more and more landslides which were by now even making
the driver comment on the stability or otherwise of the banks!
And by the way the road was full of potholes
We were amazed that this road which goes to what we assumed
was a well visited area was so bad but it still got worse and as I was not
feeling as well as I would have liked I was quite alarmed. Tone and I said
nothing but he, like me, was holding on tight!
And then we entered what I suppose was the National Park
within which the area was contained and we, or rather Helen, had to pay for us
to go on any further.
From here for a while the road got better but it was not to
last!
We knew we had to walk up to our guest house so had packed
all we needed into one back pack for the two nights we were staying there.
The other bags were left with a farmer and his family in a
small hamlet which was still some way from our final destination. We paid him 60 Yuan for keeping the three
bags for two days and set off again.
Another half an hours driving brought us to Longhi where we
got out of the car. We were to walk from
here as no cars can get any further!
So in the hot sunshine and with me by now feeling pretty
awful we left the car, took our bag and started walking. Up and up and up, see
the pics.
The people in these valleys are from either the Zhuiang or
the Yao Minority Groups in China. They live in huge, three storey houses which
traditionally housed animals on the ground floor, stores and feed etc. on the
first floor and the people on the top. Nowadays many are guest houses and
restaurants but they retain the very attractive exteriors and make the area
very attractive indeed.
After passing through the first village we walked up a stone
path which was really steep but with a surface that was much better than the
road!
But it was a long way and it was hot so I did not really
care much if the scenery was beautiful as Helen kept telling us. I just trudged
on, and on and on and then I trudged some more.
We did stop to rest several times and some chaps with a
sedan chair sussed me as a m=likely customer and followed us for a while but
there was no way I was going in a sedan chair so after a while they gave up.
By way of a little
warning here.
If you are not small
and you all know I am not small, be warned that if you go in a sedan chair you
will look like a stranded and larger than life jellyfish. You half sit and half
lie and even if you think it is comfy you will regret the photographs as long
as you live.
I only say this to be
helpful because the lady I saw in one the next day must wish she had not been
so keen to record the event for posterity!
Anyway back to the walk or trudge as it had become
Eventually we did get there. The Starwish Guest House is
almost the highest building in the village and it is a lovely if rustic place
to stay. If you consider the walk we had
done, a big half an hour by anyone’s reckoning, and you consider that
everything in the place had to be carried up here you would not quibble at the
fact that there was only French and Australian wine and that they had no
Sauvignon blanc! Actually the local, although not very local, beer was what we
drank here and it was good
To the hills via a soup kitchen and a cup of tea
Today we are off to the Dragons Backbone Rice Terraces –
Google it and you will see why we opted for two nights there.
Helen collected us with our lovely but slightly mad driver
and we set off for the journey to the rice terraces.
First a tea plantation which proved really interesting and
gave us the tea ceremony we had missed previously.
As you may know tea is taken seriously here in China and the
guide at the tea plantation showed us first how they make various sorts of tea
and then took us to the tea ceremony room
It was a lovely opportunity but it was clear in this
government run set up that it was hoped that we would buy some of the most
expensive tea. It comes in a black block and has been fermented for more than a
year, two I think but can’t quite remember. And it tastes like nothing on
earth!
So don’t worry, you
will not be getting this if you take tea with us this summer. We did get some
Jasmine tea for Cath as she drinks it all the time but we resisted all else and
after a really lovely hour (except for the old squashed tea) we set off for
lunch which was pricey!
We were asked if we would like a local speciality rice
noodles and although you might have picked up the fact that this local
speciality is local to everywhere we have been in China except where the local
speciality is DUMPLINGS we said “Of course, lovely!”
And they were. It was
little more than a soup kitchen. Formica tables, a queue to buy a ticket off
the man at the door, a choice of round or flat noodles and “do you want an
egg?” With a large bottle of beer and noodles, no eggs, for four Tone was asked
for 20 Yuan (£2) !!
So our faith in local specialities was restored as were our
grumbling tummies and off we went to the mountains.
We did actually go via the Reed Flute Caves which were
lovely but by now Tones caught had caught up with me and I was not feeling too
well so may not have appreciated the caves as well as they deserved
A quiet day
Today we have a day on our own. Helen our guide has gone
with the driver back to Guilin and will pick us up tomorrow.
So, catching up, reading, looking at the scenery, breakfast,
catching up, reading, looking at the scenery and rather later than was sensible
a walk into town.
Very hot and Tones cough and now mine not too good. Magnum for lunch and presents for Tones girls
and a hot walk back along the river back to the hotel.
It takes half an hour to walk into town and it would be
lovely but for the really hot temperature and the lack of shade for much of the
way. But after a morning of doing not
much at all we needed the exercise and just hoped it would be cooler in the
mountains where we are going tomorrow.
It is a pretty little town and for once we were not really
badgered to buy stuff by the market stallholders and the shopkeepers. So in
spite of melting we did have a good day.
Emergency????
When we returned from our amazing trip to see the cormorant
fisherman the receptionist at the hotel said there had been a phone call from
England. A lady had called and the receptionist had apparently asked her to
call us back at 10pm. Not the best thing
as it was now about 9.30 and we were worried about what it could be and waiting
for another 30 minutes would be a nightmare.
No one in their right mind wold call us at this time of
night unless there was an emergency! Would they?
So I called Charlie who was in Minorca. All well there and
they are having a great time – I promised to call back when I found out the
problem
Then I called Cath who was at home. All well there and they
were having a great time as it is half term - I promised to call back when I found
out the problem
Then after some discussion with the receptionist we thought
she was saying it was Tones wife! Well as he was with his wife we thought it
might be Paula his ex-wife and were really concerned then.
Now you might wonder why we did not just wait for the return
call but if you were in our situation you might have worried. We were a LONG way from home and also a long
way from anywhere in terms of getting home if there was a real emergency and my
mind was running through all the options with wild abandon! Tone was just thinking!
Some clear thinking at last prevailed and the receptionist
said “I have the number if you like!!!!”
It was the last call she had received and was on her phone!
It was Lara, Tones middle daughter. I called her with some
trepidation only to find that she was working from home. She was reading the
blog and she wondered if we were having a good time! She has our itinerary so
she phoned the hotel to ask us!
So, no emergency at all just one lovely girl wanting a chat
with her daddy!
But of course we then needed to call Charlie and Cath back
and what with one thing and another we needed a drink once we had done this.
Oddly enough, after the lack of affordable wine for weeks, the Li River Retreat has a short but decent
wine list at good prices so we bought a bottle of chilled white and took it up
to our room and sat on our terrace watching the lights appear amongst the peaks
and thinking once again how lucky we are.
a quiet and lovely corner and the cormorant fisherman
After our wonderful visit to Yang Yang and her granny we
were glad to go to our hotel. The Li
River Retreat is on the banks of the Li River and is a little hotel with lots
of charm.
It is set in the midst of the peaks I have already described
and to sit on the terrace of our room and look around makes me realise once
again on this trip what fabulous places we are seeing.
We can hear the calls of many birds we do not know and have
seen a couple which are quite unlike anything we have seen ever before.
I can hear orioles which I used to hear in France but have
no idea which Oriole is it as we do not have a bird book and no opportunity to
Google it to find out.
We are here for two nights so are looking forward to our
time in this little quiet corner of China
Have we seen other quiet corners yet? I don’t think so. We
will make the most of this.
But before we begin a couple of days of doing nothing much
we have another treat in store
Helen picked us up at 7 to go down to the in Yangzhou. We
boarded a little boat with about six other people and went up the river against
a very strong tide.
The little boat had wonderful wooden deck chairs to sit in
that were not fixed to the floor! There
was an assortment of lifejackets and of course no reference to how to use them
As sailors Tone and I are always on the lookout for what we
would do if something went wrong.
Here I suspect we would be taken down the river on the
strong current till we popped out in the Pearl River and then somewhere near
Hong Kong! It was getting dark and there
was no one about who would be interested in time to help!!
So armed with this thought we hoped for the best.
And the best was what we got.
Our little boat met up with the cormorant fisherman in a
smaller tributary of the Li River above the town. As we approached we could see his tiny bamboo
boat with its strong light on the bow.
He had six cormorants and they were all in the water fishing. If you have ever seen this on the telly you will
know that it seems cruel. However we
learned and could see that the cormorant seemed to be able to swallow the
little fishes. Only the larger ones were
stuck in their throats by the line tied round their necks.
As each one caught something worth having the fisherman
scooped the cormorant out on his pole and opened its beak and the fish plopped
out into his basket.
The cormorants are treated more like pets and each fisherman
usually has six birds. They live for up
to 14 years and amongst our man’s flock was a young one who kept trying to hop
out of the water onto the boat. The
fisherman just kept prodding him gently back into the water.
This was a sight I had really wanted to see and it was every
bit as good as I had hoped.
The cormorant fishermen don’t do this now as their
livelihood, but they still keep up the tradition that I saw for the first tie
when I was quite young on a, probably, David Attenborough programme on the
telly!
It was a great evening.
Of course as we headed back to the shore the strong current
was now in our favour and we were back at the bank and home to our little hotel
in no time at all.
Wonderful – another ambition achieved
Yang Yang and her Granny
We left Yangzhou and drove "to the countryside" Our driver had driven from Guilin with the bags and he picked us up to drive us on for the afternoon
We saw more beautiful, lovely, amazing scenery and Helen asked us if we wanted to visit a friend of hers.
Naturally we jumped at the chance.
Actually we did not jump as it was too hot but we were soon decanted from the car to a house close to the road. The lady is a widow who, as many grannies do in China, looks after Yang Yang, her 18 month old granddaughter. She lives in a huge barn like room with a huge picture of Chairman Mao on the wall and a flat stone where the fire burns in the winter in the middle of the floor. We were offered peanuts which she grew and were invited to sit down and admire Yang Yangs antics.
Yang Yang very quickly forgot her shyness and played to the small crowd of three she had before her. She chattered to us in Chinese and loved it when I showed her a picture of herself on my camera.
Yang Yangs Granny lives in what can only be described as uncomfortable circumstances. But she lives as many people in rural China live and it contrasts starkly with many people who live in modern if small apartments which are air conditioned and heated and have some of the home comforts that we take for granted.
This lady had a sofa but it was hard. I think it was recycled and had a hard board seat instead of the cushions it might once have had, and she had a tiny table and little stools which would be at home in an infant school. Yet she is a proud lady who welcomed us into her house, gave us tea and her home grown peanuts and was happy to meet us.
Outside and in a separate building was her kitchen and bathroom!
There was a log fire over which was placed a wok like pan and a cupboard where she kept some dried goods and eggs from her hens.
Her bathroom consisted of a bowl, a small mirror, a jug for water and a little towel. All balanced or hung on a chair and in the corner of her kitchen.
Of a loo there was no sign so I can only imagine what the arrangements for this were.
With all this it was a very happy visit and we left feeling pleased to have been there.
We saw more beautiful, lovely, amazing scenery and Helen asked us if we wanted to visit a friend of hers.
Naturally we jumped at the chance.
Actually we did not jump as it was too hot but we were soon decanted from the car to a house close to the road. The lady is a widow who, as many grannies do in China, looks after Yang Yang, her 18 month old granddaughter. She lives in a huge barn like room with a huge picture of Chairman Mao on the wall and a flat stone where the fire burns in the winter in the middle of the floor. We were offered peanuts which she grew and were invited to sit down and admire Yang Yangs antics.
Yang Yang very quickly forgot her shyness and played to the small crowd of three she had before her. She chattered to us in Chinese and loved it when I showed her a picture of herself on my camera.
Yang Yangs Granny lives in what can only be described as uncomfortable circumstances. But she lives as many people in rural China live and it contrasts starkly with many people who live in modern if small apartments which are air conditioned and heated and have some of the home comforts that we take for granted.
This lady had a sofa but it was hard. I think it was recycled and had a hard board seat instead of the cushions it might once have had, and she had a tiny table and little stools which would be at home in an infant school. Yet she is a proud lady who welcomed us into her house, gave us tea and her home grown peanuts and was happy to meet us.
Outside and in a separate building was her kitchen and bathroom!
There was a log fire over which was placed a wok like pan and a cupboard where she kept some dried goods and eggs from her hens.
Her bathroom consisted of a bowl, a small mirror, a jug for water and a little towel. All balanced or hung on a chair and in the corner of her kitchen.
Of a loo there was no sign so I can only imagine what the arrangements for this were.
With all this it was a very happy visit and we left feeling pleased to have been there.
a little light shopping
When we got to Yangshou we got off the boat and as has often been the case we had to walk passed little shops in West Street. The Zhuang Minority Group have amazing costumes and there was some to buy of course. I was interested in hand made stuff not machine made even though the machine made stuff was actually really nice.
We found a shop where there were pieces from old jackets and I was taken by a piece from a sleeve. It is (I say is because it is now mine!) embroidered with either lotus flowers or peonies. I was particularly keen on this piece because Marie, my sister has some pieces from Granny Pardoes house. Sleeves from a Chinese gentleman's jacket which are wonderful. Now I can frame it as they are framed and it will hopefully become a treasured family piece.
So far this is the first piece I have bought that was not on my imaginary list so in five weeks I have been quite good!!
There are some very beautiful things here and such clever people who are keeping up their traditions in their dress and customs.
We found a shop where there were pieces from old jackets and I was taken by a piece from a sleeve. It is (I say is because it is now mine!) embroidered with either lotus flowers or peonies. I was particularly keen on this piece because Marie, my sister has some pieces from Granny Pardoes house. Sleeves from a Chinese gentleman's jacket which are wonderful. Now I can frame it as they are framed and it will hopefully become a treasured family piece.
So far this is the first piece I have bought that was not on my imaginary list so in five weeks I have been quite good!!
There are some very beautiful things here and such clever people who are keeping up their traditions in their dress and customs.
Tuesday 4 June 2013
Up the River - "why did you bother to come?" Walking the plank
30th May
Today is the cruise on the Li River. Our driver dropped us with Helen and we got on the boat.
We were directed quite firmly by the staff to sit at a particular table and there was a little jostling as this was not necessarily where we would like to have sat. However we were told this was just where we would sit for lunch and we cold move around once the boat moved.
We were sat by two Americans and two English people. Interesting conversations about democracy whereby one of the Americans said that "giving every humanoid in the country a vote was not democracy!!" Did she mean that some people should not have a vote or that some should have only half a vote? From her other conversations she meant the latter so we were not in harmony as the cruise started and we went up on the top deck with Helen. We were travelling down the river and the scenery was breath taking. Which meant of course I was again not speaking!!!
The mountain peaks rear up from the valley floor and there are dozens and dozens of them and they go on for miles. Lots of little villages along the way, wonderful Phoenix Tail Bamboo and horizontal rain. We had brollies and Helen said this weather made for the BEST views. The mist and the fast flowing, and therefore muddy, river, meant we were seeing the river and the scenery at its best. We could not help thinking that clear skies, clear waters and no rain not to mention some light sunshine and clear skies might have been better still but Helen would have none of it and waxed lyrical about every minute of the day! Her enthusiasm is infectious and Tone said after a while that I had caught her excitement and was saying how wonderful it all was.
And it was of course.
At lunch, we had been warned off and only had fruit, we sat again by our table companions. After some further declarations about China, it's people, the USA and the awfulness of life in general Tone in his usual diplomatic way said to the lady "If you think it is all so awful why did you bother to come" End of conversation which was no loss! She was also very rude to her guide stating quite clearly and loudly that the "waffle" he was giving her that a mountain looked like pouncing lion was something she could not see and had no intention of trying----hence my comment to her which her husband loved!
Soon after this the Americans' Guide said they had to get off the boat as they were not going as far as the rest of us. The boat slowed down, ran up the bank and a plank was extended and they got off. Tone would have preferred them to get off the other side of the boat with him prodding them with a stick as they walked off into the river!
Better now they had gone.
Today is the cruise on the Li River. Our driver dropped us with Helen and we got on the boat.
We were directed quite firmly by the staff to sit at a particular table and there was a little jostling as this was not necessarily where we would like to have sat. However we were told this was just where we would sit for lunch and we cold move around once the boat moved.
We were sat by two Americans and two English people. Interesting conversations about democracy whereby one of the Americans said that "giving every humanoid in the country a vote was not democracy!!" Did she mean that some people should not have a vote or that some should have only half a vote? From her other conversations she meant the latter so we were not in harmony as the cruise started and we went up on the top deck with Helen. We were travelling down the river and the scenery was breath taking. Which meant of course I was again not speaking!!!
The mountain peaks rear up from the valley floor and there are dozens and dozens of them and they go on for miles. Lots of little villages along the way, wonderful Phoenix Tail Bamboo and horizontal rain. We had brollies and Helen said this weather made for the BEST views. The mist and the fast flowing, and therefore muddy, river, meant we were seeing the river and the scenery at its best. We could not help thinking that clear skies, clear waters and no rain not to mention some light sunshine and clear skies might have been better still but Helen would have none of it and waxed lyrical about every minute of the day! Her enthusiasm is infectious and Tone said after a while that I had caught her excitement and was saying how wonderful it all was.
And it was of course.
At lunch, we had been warned off and only had fruit, we sat again by our table companions. After some further declarations about China, it's people, the USA and the awfulness of life in general Tone in his usual diplomatic way said to the lady "If you think it is all so awful why did you bother to come" End of conversation which was no loss! She was also very rude to her guide stating quite clearly and loudly that the "waffle" he was giving her that a mountain looked like pouncing lion was something she could not see and had no intention of trying----hence my comment to her which her husband loved!
Soon after this the Americans' Guide said they had to get off the boat as they were not going as far as the rest of us. The boat slowed down, ran up the bank and a plank was extended and they got off. Tone would have preferred them to get off the other side of the boat with him prodding them with a stick as they walked off into the river!
Better now they had gone.
Silver linings
Thursday 30th May
Yesterday we had a quiet day and in the afternoon went to the airport to fly to Guilin for a few days in the countryside and the mountains. Just for a change the plane was late!! No information was available and we arrived to be met by Helen who will be our last guide and taken to our hotel.
Helen is from the Zhuang Minority Group and she is very enthusiastic. We were to find out over the next four days that for Helen everything is wonderful, beautiful, lucky, happy! Nothing at all over the whole time we were with her was anything other than perfect! Even when it rained---it will make the air clearer, or was foggy------when the sun comes out it will be better etc.
As you will see although it was a great few days, it did rain, it was misty at times, there were some less than nice people and it was also baking hot at times with no shelter from the sun!
As we drove to our hotel Helen sang us a folk song from her village and promised to sing more tomorrow!
This is the second time this has happened and it is interesting to hear women of her age who still keep to the traditions of their groups. I would expect it in older people but with people like Helen supporting the traditions they may not die out as quickly as we think.
Yesterday we had a quiet day and in the afternoon went to the airport to fly to Guilin for a few days in the countryside and the mountains. Just for a change the plane was late!! No information was available and we arrived to be met by Helen who will be our last guide and taken to our hotel.
Helen is from the Zhuang Minority Group and she is very enthusiastic. We were to find out over the next four days that for Helen everything is wonderful, beautiful, lucky, happy! Nothing at all over the whole time we were with her was anything other than perfect! Even when it rained---it will make the air clearer, or was foggy------when the sun comes out it will be better etc.
As you will see although it was a great few days, it did rain, it was misty at times, there were some less than nice people and it was also baking hot at times with no shelter from the sun!
As we drove to our hotel Helen sang us a folk song from her village and promised to sing more tomorrow!
This is the second time this has happened and it is interesting to hear women of her age who still keep to the traditions of their groups. I would expect it in older people but with people like Helen supporting the traditions they may not die out as quickly as we think.
Wednesday 29 May 2013
To the opera
Tuesday 28th May
This evening we had arranged to go to the Chengdu Opera where they did similar things to the one in Xian but had a puppet act and a hand shadow act as well as the Changing Faces act which I particularly wanted to see
We had very good seats on the central isle four rows from the front and in front of each pair of chairs was a bench with tea cups and some crispy rice biscuits.
As soon as we sat down a man with a kettle of boiling water filled the cups and throughout the show any sign of anything other than a full cup were met with a refill.
Sometimes he came along with a kettle with a spout two feet long and filled the cups of the people sitting further into the row from beside me!! He did not spill a drop
We talked to a couple of Americans, he described himself a "Professor" so of course Tone asked him what he was doing. He has been in China since 1st April travelling around studying what people expect from their religion. His conclusions so far which Tone wrung out of him were, they want comfort, they ask for health, wealth and good luck, as a famous American once said "no shit Sherlock!". He is being paid for this and will write a book.
The show was brilliant. Amazing costumes. The puppet and shadow show were very clever and the finale was the face changing and costume changing act to which was added some fire eating for good measure.
Really clever and a good finish to the evening.
Back to the hotel and a rare G & T in the bar.
Sadly Tones cough is really bad so we had to abandon thoughts of a second!
We think he did have a cold but what with the constant changes in temperature, the air conditioning and the pollution in some of the cities we have been in he cannot shake it off.
Hopefully four days in the country and in the mountains will help.
Off to Guilin tomorrow evening so a quiet day calls before we go to the airport
Tone following his past!!
Tuesday 28th May afternoon
When we were researching for this trip there were two things that did not appear in any tourist guide books but that Tone read about is other books or knew about from somewhere
The first was the mummies that we read about many years ago that had been discovered in central China and which were buried in cloth like Tartan. Not the coloured stuff from Scotland but more like the muted colours of the tartan we sometimes see when we are in Cornwall.
Apparently these are lying in the back room of a museum somewhere and are not open to public or probably even private view.. Where they came from and how they got there is a difficult question for the Government, they were found by an American explorer and archaeologist on the silk road and are of Caucasian origin pre-dating the Chinese occupation of the area! So that was a No from Chris Moore from Audleys who have organised most of this trip for us.
The second was the Dujiangyan Irrigation project which is in Sichuan province. Tone was interested because in 1981 he had helped to complete a project in Kurdistan which he thought looked exactly like this one here. The difference was that Tone thought the one he had some involvement in was a clever new idea and the one here is 250 BC!!
Chris Moore found out about it and added it to our itinerary and this was where we went this afternoon.
Actually it very interesting. The designers had a problem with flooding but still wanted water for irrigation so they dug out a huge channel in a mountain, like you do in 250 BC by hand, diverted the water in two ways and voila!
They diverted the water in two ways by using a natural curve in the river and a series of 3 weirs, the first allowing a constant volume over for irrigation, the second was similar and would take away the pebbles and silt coming down the main river and the third as balancing point combined with a bottleneck to ensure any flooding at that point went back into the main river and not down the irrigation channel. Very clever. We reflected on the thought that this system which was modernised in the year 800AD by capping the weirs with newly discovered concrete (! )to reduce erosion would still be working well long after the Three Gorges Dam has silted up and stopped working and it needed no dam!. Not sure if I can say that but as it is apparently an issue for all dams I suppose it is obvious
So although this visit was entirely for Tones interest I found it fascinating and Karen who had had to do quite a lot of research including visiting with her boyfriend last weekend and buying a book on the project in English said they also found it interesting. We were incidentally yet again the only Western visitors so cause the curious stares and beaming smiles from all around.
Pandas and other things
Tuesday 28th May
Today we went to see the Panda preservation Base which is not too far from here
We were not too sure what to expect but the place is very lovely. Not many people here but plenty of pandas. Mummy bears, Daddy bears and baby bears. Actually we did not see the daddy bears, I just made that up for convenience. As we were there quite early in the morning
the bears were all quite active by Panda standards. They were very lovely as you might expect and the place does some great work. Last year they had 12 babies which we all know is quite an achievement. I told Karen how the very possibility of Pandas even mating makes national news at home and she was very amused. She certainly does not "get" us much of the time.
Emily if you are reading this I have got your panda for you but they would not let me bring one of the real ones. Sorry.
Next we paid an unscheduled visit to a silk museum where a brilliant guide showed us round the museum. She showed us a double sided silk screen of four panels which had taken three women ten years to make! Wonderful
Oddly enough I was tempted to a little red silk which you can all admire when I come home. Don't worry it's a scarf!
Not another hot pot
Monday 27th May
On reflection I am not quite sure what made us take Karen suggestion that we should have a local hot pot. The one we had had in Chongqing had not been our favourite meal of the trip but she assured us that this was very special!
It was just like the last one except that they also served black tripe and intestines of some sort that Karen who had eagerly accepted our invitation to join us ate with gusto.
She is a little scrap of a thing but she chomped her way through a lot of food with table manners which would have had Ellie and Emily sent to their rooms with no pudding!
So no more dumplings and no more hot pot!
When Robs mum and dad came back from Singapore many years ago they brought an old fashioned hot pot and we used to have delicious suppers with them but they did not serve such delights as innards and rather poor quality meat of indeterminate origin!
Hey Ho a lesson learned
Pandas tomorrow
Are you being served?
Monday 27th May
Arrived in Chengdu and met by Karen. To the hotel which is very nice.
No No Smoking room available would we like a smoking room which was ready?
Of course you can imaging our response to that was negative so we had to wait in the foyer with Karen for about half an hour.
Whilst we waited a smartly dressed member of staff who was not Chinese came up and asked me how we were enjoying staying in the hotel!! Poor girl, it was her first day as Customers Services Manager and she asked me that question at that time. She did make things happen and we were soon booked in.
It turns out that Julia is from Salamanca and came to work in China because there are no opportunities at home.
Now we are firm friends and she has been very kind and attentive to us every time she sees us.
Afternoon spent drinking tea by the river in a lovely park.
Yet another delayed plane and "no information"
Monday 27th May
Off to the airport to check in for our flight to Chengdu. The plane arrived on time and we boarded on time and they showed the safety film on time and then nothing happened!
After a while we were served with some sort of sandwich. At least it was not a dumpling but it still tasted horrid. They seem to make savoury filled sandwiches with slightly sweet bread.
After a little while more we were served a drink. I asked how long the delay would be. They said "no information"
So they started to show a film. Skyfall as it happened so we started to watch it.
Half an hour into the film it was stopped and the plane started!
Still "no information" but as I have said before "this is China"
So of the four planes we have taken so far three have been late!
When we come to China again we will take trains wherever possible. They are so many new lines going in for the bullet trains that this will get easier very quickly.
If I never see another dumpling!
Sunday 26th May 2013
The Dumpling Banquet was held in the theatre. Seated at tables at right angles to the stage we had good seats and ordered two beers.
The dumplings arrived and there were three different sorts. Fish, meat and cabbage. These were steamed and they were ok
Then some more dumplings arrived, three different sorts fish, meat and meat and cabbage! These were steamed and they were ok
Then some more dumplings arrived, three different sorts fish, meat and meat and cabbage and they were rather less all right and we could not eat them
Then some more dumplings arrived, three different sorts fish, meat and meat and cabbage and they were rather less all right and we could not eat them
Then some more dumplings arrived, four different sorts, meat fish cabbage and red bean. There were definitely not all right and the new flavour red bean were disgusting and we did not eat any of them!!
Then some boiled dumplings arrived by which time we were dumplinged out and had almost lost the will to live.
Then the soup arrived but we are now wise to the fact that this is generally the water they have boiled the dumplings in with a few added vegetables. This time they had forgotten to re-heat it so they lit a solid fuel stove under it in the middle of the table! We tasted then declined!
Not taking the hint that we had had enough after the second lot of dumplings they brought some little meringue things and something that looked like sausage rolls! Dessert we were told! We did taste but not eat these. They were ok but as I said we were dumplinged out long before
Then they said wait a minute we have some fruit and mercifully some really nice watermelon arrived! This was ok
After all the tables were cleared the show started and it was really nice. Dancing, singing and music from the Tang Dynasty which lasted just an hour. ( Star of the show for me (Tony) was a man who managed to whistle loudly, in tune and very well while playing two trumpets alternately or as a finale together!) So we did have a lovely evening, would gladly have eaten two lots of dumplings but now if we never see another one it will probably be too soon.
After the warriors
Sunday 26th
Charlie tells me this is my 100th blog so well done to all of you who are still with us!
In view of my being lost for words so often this seems rather an achievement.
This afternoon on the way back from The Warriors we visited the Muslim Quarter and the Grand Mosque in Xian. Wonderful little streets where we purchased some beautiful calligraphy (after a serious bit of haggling over the price). Thanks to Wendy for suggesting this. What we bought was done by the lady selling it so it is very special. Like the snuff bottle we got in Beijing in the Hutongs we will remember the lady and the place as well as have the lovely calligraphy to recall our trip.
There was a service at the Mosque and it was interesting to try to count the number of pairs of shoes outside. Certainly several hundred at about three in the afternoon.
Back to the hotel as we are off to a dumpling banquet and a show! Apparently Xian is famous for these Dumpling Banquets. The man who sat beside us on the plane here told us not to miss it!
Sunday 26 May 2013
Samuels Spiel and the American couple
Today another wonder of the World. How many can one take in one trip?
Samuel is a modern young man with ambitions to be a cultural ambassador for China. He has just returned from his first guiding tour abroad where he took a group of English speaking tourists to various parts of Asia. He has qualified to work internationally and is quite rightly proud of himself.
He uses an I pad to show us pictures and diagrams about where we are going and of course where we are going today is to see the Terra Cotta Warriors.
First we walked on the City Walls of Xian which are beautifully restored and maintained. You could cycle or walk the 14km all round but we just did one side, the east side as we were leaving the City by the East Gate to go to see the Warriors.
The Walls give more opportunity for the exercise that older Chinese people like to do so much outdoors,, More reflexology and more Tai Chai
Then off for about half an hour to see the Warriors
Samuel told us the tale of the farmer who found them when he was digging a well
He said that the farmer had three horse drawn carts full of bit of the warriors and he took them to the city officials. They told him he was a hero of China and gave him 3 Yuan for them. He said he could bring them more and could borrow more horses and carts to make more money but they said no. This belongs to the Government now!!
Samuel talked of an American couple who came and met the farmer at the museum and asked him to sign his name. He could not write but drew three circles representing the three coins he was given for the three carts full.
The American was surprised that he could not write and suggested to the City officials that they should teach the man to write his name and then he could sign the books that were for sale about the Warriors and earn some commission. The Chinese Officials might have ignored this suggested but for the fact that the American couple were Bill and Hilary Clinton!
So now the farmer is a rich man but he was there this morning signing books! We did not buy one as we were seriously close to paying excess baggage on one of our cases yesterday! The other one is ok so we can repack but there are still some things we would like to buy so must be careful. We did buy postcards though.
Let me tell you about the warriors
They are in three pits and one is the one you will have seen on the news or in magazines. The awful story we heard was that when they were uncovered they were fully coloured in wonderful bright paint but within 40 minutes to 2 days after they were exposed to the light the colour flaked off and that is why the ones we see are just brown!!
In the second and third pit there are less warriors as most have not been exposed yet. They are still buried under the wooden roofs and straw matting that they were covered with originally. They will be excavated once they can be protected and there is a German method they are using at present to test out how to do this.
The Emperor, whose tomb it is, is buried just under 2km away from these pits and they have not even used robotic cameras to look in there yet.
Most of what I can tell you will not be news as we do know a great deal of what they look like and of their story. However being there causes another silent Lizzy moment. Tone is trying to decide whether spending all this money to keep me quiet is a good deal!
My favourite thing about the warriors is their faces which are all different. Again I know you will be aware of this but seeing them makes them seem like models of real soldiers and it is quite moving.
They have lovely faces
We saw an American sponsored Imax film of the discovery which was not as amazing as the real things but interesting all the same and then reluctantly left to walk back to the car and our driver to return to Xian
What a treat. I have lost count of the number of times I have said to Tone, how lucky we are. Just think where we are n the world.
Tart's boudoir, pervert's paradise?
Sunday 26th May
I do like this hotel but the room is quite amusing as there are mirrors everywhere. This included a clear glass wall between the bedroom and the shower. Yes actually in the shower!
There is a blind over it but it is rather odd. There are also mirrored walls, in fact the only unmirrored wall is the one in front of me as I type up my blogs and the one behind Tones side of the bed. All very odd!
Xian
We arrived here to be met by Samuel our guide and our driver Mr Yuan. It was tipping down with rain so we went straight to the hotel and checked in, agreeing to meet in the morning at 8.30am
The hotel is very nice. I did not really like the one in Beijing for some reason so was glad to find this one more to my liking
We did not venture far in the evening as it was still raining and Tone has developed a cough and a cold. He is not bothering the Chinese people as they just think he is about to spit. I on the other hand?
He is not feeling too good so a quick supper and then some blogging and then bed
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